Climbing

A long tradition links the Campo Base to thw world of climbing and alpinism: the position itself of the refuge, lying at the foot of the Castello-Provenzale group, is an invitation to dress harness and climbing shoes and go up on one of the hundreds routes of the group.

Our home mountain offers classic and modern routes, born in decades of exploration of its summits: Rocca and Torre Castello, Punta Figari, Rocca Provenzale.

Here we highlight, without any claim of completeness, some of the most significant routes of the Castello-Provenzale group, all of them requiring a 10 (the ones on Rocca Provenzale) to 30-40 minutes (the ones starting from Colle Greguri) walk from the Refuge.

The Russet climbing wall offers to the climbers 21 single-pitches on excellent quartzite and difficulties from 5 to 7b.

Rocca Castello - Via Normale

Start: Colle Greguri, 2.319 m
Lenght: 133 m
Difficulty: 3b obbl.

The easiest route to get on the summit of Rocca Castello is an excellent approach to the climbing in an open mountain environment. Little-medium friends are useful to integrate the bolts on the route.

Rocca Castello - Balzola route

Balzola route

Start: 15 meters from Maria-Grazia (SE) ridge
Lenght: 260 m
Difficulty: D+, max IV+

Opened by Luigi Balzola and Giuseppe Marchese in 1955, it is a beautiful classic route with good equipment. Nut and friends can be useful. Eight lenghts, abseiling descent on the route.

Rocca Castello - King Line

King Line

Strat: 10 meters on the left of Rinaudo Route
Lenght: 250 m
Difficulty: 5c/6a max

Fully equipped with inox bolts, seven pitches with constant difficulties on excellent rock.

Torre Castello - Direttissima Ribaldone

Direttissima Ribaldone

Start: foot of the crack-dihedral in the center of the west wall

Lenght: 210 m
Difficulty: TD-, max V

Very difficult and exposed classic route all on pitons: only for lovers of this kind of climbing.

Rocca Provenzale - Bonino-Perino-Girodo route

Bonino-Perino-Girodo route

Lenght: 420 m
Difficulty: 6a, 5a obbl.

Route entirely on cracks, equipped with bolts on every belay and on the first four lenghts. Highest difficulties in the second (overhanging wall) and fifth pitch (crack-chimney).

Rocca Castello - North-West Ridge

North-West Ridge

Start: start of the big west ledge
Lenght: 350 m
Difficulty: AD+, max V-

Classic route over the first seven pitches, then the itinerary, in common with the Sigismondi Route, is equipped with spits. Most difficult moves are concentrated in the V- crack in the fifth lenght.

Rocca Castello - Maria Grazia Spur

Maria Grazia Spur

Start: 50 meters under Colle Greguri
Sviluppo: 230 m
Lenght: D, 5b obbl.

The route follows entirely the spur, except for some moves on the east wall in the second and third lenght. There are many pitons, to be integrated. Descent on the Balzola route.

Torre Castello - Genovesi south route

Genovesi south route

Start: Forcella Provenzale, East Chimney route (AD+, 90 m)
Lenght: 210 m
Difficulty: TD, max V

Very difficult classic route on all pitons, highly exposed: only for lovers of this kind of climbs.

Torre Castello - Gedda slab, N-E spur

Gedda slab, N-E spur

Start: Forcella Castello, 2420 m (descending form the Rocca)
Lenght: 30 m
Difficulty: IV

A tribute to Virgilio Gedda, the first climber of the Torre by traditional means (just by rope, to be honest). Not difficult but requiring a certain engagement, however.

Rocca Provenzale - Danza Provenzale route

Danza Provenzale route

Lenght: 200 m
Difficulty: 6a

Very continous route, equipped by bolts over the pithes and at belays. Key move in the last lenght: 6a well protected roof.

Rocca Castello - Sigismondi route

Sigismondi route

Start: Colle Greguri, 2.319 m
Lenght: 135 m
Difficulty: AD, max III+

Classic route with equipped belays and bolts in the most difficult points. The ridge is highly exposed but with good holds.

Rocca Castello - Rinaudo route

Rinaudo route

Strat: at the foot of the wall, among the rocks.
Lenght: 210 m
Difficulty: 5a

Classic route, partly equipped with pitons to be integrated, good continuity on not excessive difficulties.

Torre Castello - Castiglioni West route

Lenght: 210 m
Difficulty: D+, V-

Climbed by Elvezio Bozzoli-Parasacchi, Vitale Bramani and Ettore Castiglioni on September 10th 1936, the route rides the wild west wall of the Torre Castello, getting to the summit by five hard and continuous lenghts.

Torre Castello - Castiglioni (S-E) spur

Castiglioni (S-E) spur

Start: Forcella Provenzale, east chimney route (AD+, 90 m)
Lenght: 200 m
Difficulty: 6a, 5b obbl.

An historical route, opened in 1936 by Vitale Bramani and Ettore Castiglioni, which offers an highly exposed climb on excellent rocks. For a long time has been considered the most difficult route of the Cottian Alps.

Russet Climbing Wall

High sector:

1.Borotalco 6b – 2.Sapone 6b – 3.Kajal 6b+ – 4.Extension 7a+ – 5.Tatù 6c – 6.Botox 6b+ – 7.Rimmel 6a – 8-Eyeliner 6b – 9.Glitter 6a+ – 10.Russet 6c – 11.Piercing 6b+ – 12.Rasoio 6b – 13.Spuma 5

Low sector:

14.Lifting 6a+ – 15.Mascara 6a – 16.Tonico 6b+ – 17.Make up 6c – 18.Trucco e Parrucco 5 – 19.Barba e Capelli 5 – 20.Acetone 6a – 21.Cotton Fioc 6a+

Per ogni altra informazione sulle vie del gruppo Castello-Provenzale vi invitiamo a consultare la Guida Alpinistica “Il Gruppo Castello-Provenzale” (ed. 2010) ed i siti www.cuneoclimbing.it e www.gulliver.it . La guida è disponibile in consultazione in Rifugio.